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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.